Neigoushan 內溝山 , Cuei Lake 翠湖, and Laojiujian 老鷲尖

A very enjoyable hike in the Xizhi district of New Taipei City, this popular trail has a lot going for it: Jinlong Lake, Cuei Lake, exposed rocky ridges, good views throughout, a couple of thrilling summits and four peaks. But for all of that it is a relatively mellow walk on a pretty, and generally well-maintained trail. Highly recommended despite some challenges getting to the trailhead with public transportation.  

Distance/duration: 6 hrs 7 min/ 9.9 km. 

More details as well as a map can be found here on my ramblr account. 

This could have been a lot shorter. My is guess it could be done in about 4 hours. We really took our time. Furthermore, I don't recommend anyone follow the first part of our track. To get from the Jinlong Lake bus stop to the trailhead, we ended up trespassing through a private gated community. I will explain and give options for getting to the trailhead in the transportation section below. 

Trail Overview:  The beginning part of the route we walked is on a feeder trail and not the main trail that most hikers take to Neigoushan. It is a nice, clear trail and I recommend it for those comfortable with somewhat rougher trails that get less traffic. It was very muddy when we walked it because it had rained for the previous three days. Once we joined the main trail to Neigoushan it was wider. We walked a more-or-less U-shaped route that followed a ridge and ended at Jinlong Lake.

Cuei Lake is a small, peaceful pond in a deep valley. There is some open water but most of it is filled with aquatic plants. There is a good trail all the way around the lake and there are benches and tables and flowers. It's a peaceful, secluded-feeling spot. The lake was formed during the Japanese colonial period when mining waste was dumped in the valley blocking the stream and creating the lake. It provides habitat for fish, frogs, birds and other wildlife. 

There is an old mine site, the Beigang Erkeng Mine Site, downstream of Cuei Lake. Mining at the site began in 1901. 

None of the peaks on the route are high but there are excellent views of the surrounding hills, Taipei City and nearby communities. There were some sunny areas but most of the time there was plentiful shade and a cooling, breeze even on a hot day. The trail surface was dirt, natural stone or wood steps. Some of the wooden steps had seen better days and it was better to walk on the packed earth next to them.  Throughout the hike we saw lots of butterflies and saw and heard lots of bird life. 

Neigoushan (137 m) is a rocky point reached by an exciting but not difficult climb up aluminum ladders.  Laojiujian (193m) has a great view. It's a good place for spotting birds of prey floating on updrafts and is also called Laoyingjian or Eagle Peak. Other peaks include Laojiujian South Peak (157 m) and Xuetouposhan (120 m). 

Jinlong Lake, at the end of the hike, is a large urban lake with a walking path around it's perimeter. 

What to bring:  I packed water and food. Sun protection is important on the exposed sections. 

Transportation:  I took a train from Taipei Main Station to Xizhi and met two friends there.  

At Xizhi station, I exited through the main hall at the Xinyi Road exit. You can take bus 817 to Jinlong lake from the bus stop across the street. 

I did not prepare very well for this hike. I had read that you could take the bus to Jinlong Lake and then walk to the trail head and I was pretty confident I could just look at the map and cut across the streets to the trail. As one of my old friends said before a hike in Arizona a long time ago, "It's no fun, if you plan too much." (Though I would also add that sometimes it can be a disaster if you don't plan enough.)

As an aside, on the Arizona hike we set off on a multi-day hike through a canyon with no idea how we would get home at the other end. On the way, we met two guys going the opposite way who had left a car at either end of the trail. One of the guys gave us the keys to his Saab and we drove his car to the other end (where our car was parked) and dropped it off for him.  

The problem in this case was that in the area I planned to cut across, there was a private gated, community. We did walk through it but I definitely don't recommend going that way. We attracted the attention of security guards and it took longer than expected. I'd like to go back again and do this walk correctly and also hike Shuiwantanshan which we did not go to on this trip. 

I think there are a few options for getting to the trailhead. The easiest might be to just get a taxi or Uber from Xizhi to the main Neigoushan trailhead (not the feeder trail that we started on). Here is the Google Maps link. 

The best option by bus is probably to take the 817 to Jinlong Lake and walk around the east side of the lake toward the trail where we finished our hike. There instead of turning on the trail keep going north joining Lane 5, Hudong Street. Follow it for about 1 km next to the stream until you reach a trail just south of Cuei Lake and start the hike at the old mine site and Cuei Lake. That stream flows from Cuei Lake to Jinlong Lake.   

Another option would be to take a bus to the Zhongshan Street Entrance bus stop which is near the trail we took. You could also walk along a footpath next to a stream for a little over 1 km to the main Neigoushan trailhead. 

Bus 53 goes there from Donghu MRT Station. 

Bus 630 and 646 and 903 go there from Huzhou MRT Station. 

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The Hike

 We got to Jinlong Lake and started walking a little after 8 am. 

We walked around the western side of the lake and up a hill.  

At the top, we were confused and asked a man if he knew the way to Neigoushan. He said we could get there through the community and asked if we had a key. He said it was lucky we had asked him (Hai hao ni you wen wo) and he opened a side door for us with his key card. It was a very clean, very nice community of private condominiums. 

I felt conspicuous strolling through the community and it wasn't long before we attracted the attention of a security guard. I could see on the map that there was a trail to Neigoushan that started within the complex but when we checked it out we found that someone had cut grass clippings and brush and piled it all up in a huge mound to block the trail. It was clear they did not want people going that way.  As we were checking out the trail, a security guard on a scooter told us we couldn't go that way and asked us where we wanted to go. He didn't really challenge us but his demeanor seemed to communicate that he would rather not have to deal with us. He told us the way to the da men (the main gate) and drove away. 

At the main gate, another security guard, came out of the guard station and asked us more sharply Ni yao qu nali (Where do you want to go?). I guessed that the other guard had radioed him and told him to watch out for us. 

Just outside the main gate of the community we passed the Zhongshan Street Entrance bus stop. I recommend starting here and taking the trail that we walked or alternatively walking along the stream-side path all the way to the main Neigoushan trailhead--which is a little over 1 km away. 

We crossed the stream and turned north walking on the path next to the stream. 

 After 250 meters we turned right and crossed the stream again. 

 At the next corner we turned left into an alley and came to the trailhead which was at the end of a messy path going between a fence and a building. 

At the end of the alley the trail became clear. We started up leaf strewn steps and we were finally on the way!

 The trail meandered and went up and down a bit. It passed close to the community which we could see below through the trees. At the next junction, we turned right. 

 

After just 1.2 km we came to a crossroads. The path on the left came up from the main Neigoushan trailhead, the path straight ahead went to Neigoushan and the path on the right led down to Cuei Lake. We decided to go right and see Cuei Lake first. 

 The path here was slippery and a bit steep and we had to take care. I could see on the map that we would need to make a bridge less stream crossing. As we got closer I could hear the water and was worried it might be high after the heavy rain. But actually it just took a couple of steps to cross. 

We followed the trail to the left, going upstream next to the water. We came to a stone table and benches and a T-intersection where we stopped for a rest and a snack. (If we had first gone right after crossing the stream we could have visited the Beigang Erkeng mine site which is just a little bit downstream but I did not realize it until later. )

 Turning left at the T-intersection we came to the lake after just a couple of minutes. We took the trail going around the right side. The lake is not very big and it did not take long to walk all the way around to the end and the other side where there was a rectangular clearing of packed earth. 

We turned left at the clearing and just at the end of it came to a trail heading uphill (on the other side of a short wooden footbridge). 

This trail took us back up to the top of the ridge in just a few minutes. 

 Now we were on the far side of Neigoushan so we had to backtrack (to the left) first to summit the peak. This was one of the most fun parts of the hike. The peak is reached by way of two aluminum ladders and a rocky path with fixed ropes. 

The peak was smooth, dry stone. There were two benches. We stopped for another rest and some food. 

We went back down the aluminum ladders and along the ridge. The trail from here was wide and easy. We followed signs for Laojiujian (老鷲尖). On the way we passed a nice view point. Looking toward Taipei we could see the Grand Hotel, the Shinkong Mitsukoshi department store building at Taipei Main Station and parts of Yangminshan National Park. 

 We climbed up a long, set of wooden steps--probably the most strenuous part of the whole hike. 

 At the top there was a side trail going up more steps to Laojiujian. 

Laojiujian 

 You can go on to Shuiweitanshan from here but we went back down and continued following the ridge. (Turning left at the bottom of the steps leading to the peak.)

We went over Laojiujian South Peak and then the wide trail led us along a cliff looking over a valley. 

Laojiujian South Peak

 

We came to an amazing view point which was reached by a thrilling climb up another ladder and along a narrow rocky spine. It was possible to take a trail around it instead but we couldn't resist and the view was incredible. 

 

 From here we just had to follow the ridge all the way down to Jinlong Lake but we still had a ways to go and some ups and downs, with views along the way. 

We came to one rocky point where I crawled out onto a smooth stone promontory and lay there feeling the wind and watching it blowing the trees in the forest far below. 

Getting closer to the city we passed along the top of a stone wall and looked down into the streets below and then went through a bamboo grove. 

 

Xuetouposhan is reached near the end of the trail. There is no clearing and I would not have noticed it if it weren't for the summit sign. There is a big electricity pylon next to it. The trail went down wooden steps for the final stretch before finally reaching a road. 

 

 There was a map board and a sign pointing to Jinlong Lake. We turned left and followed the road to Jinlong Lake. 

 We followed Lane 5 Hudong Street to Mingfeng Street and turned left and walked to the 817 Jinlonghu bus stop. 

 

Buses going back to Xizhi stop next to number 19 Mingfeng Street. But we decided to take the bus in the other direction from the stop across the road from a 7-11 which goes to Nangang Exhibition Hall MRT Station because it was coming sooner. 

 

Nearby hikes:

 

Xizhi Gongbeidian 汐止拱北殿, and Beigang Hill 北港山 

  

Yuemei Cave Trail 月眉洞步道 and Xian Dong Hu Shan 仙洞湖山 Loop Hike

 

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Map and GPS coordinates:

Trailhead where we started: 25.080091, 121.624983

Beigang Erkeng Mine Site: 25.087155, 121.630607

Cuei Lake: 25.089177, 121.628973

Neigoushan: 25.08906, 121.627381

Laojiujian Peak: 25.095899, 121.626152

Laojiujian South Peak: 25.094475, 121.627193

Xuetouposhan: 25.077372, 121.636513

Jinlong Lake: 25.074139, 121.632385 

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Fumao Old Trail 福卯古道

 

Fumao Old Trail, the former route between Fulong and the coastal fishing village of Mao'ao, is a very nice, mostly-level, easy to moderate walk in the Gongliao District of New Taipei City that only takes about 2 hours. Near the mid-point it passes the ruins of old stone houses. The hike is basically a very pleasant walk in the woods that ends at the ocean. Mao'ao, a small village by the sea, has a harbor, a large temple, some traditional houses and a few restaurants. Afterwards, take the bus back to Fulong. 

 

Distance/duration: 5.7 km\ 2 hours

More details as well as a map can be found here on my ramblr account.

Trail Overview: The walk starts at Fulong Train Station. Fulong is a popular place-- especially on weekends. There is a beach and not far from here is the Old Caoling Tunnel, a former railway tunnel converted into a biking route. There is also a seaside cycling route. There are lots of places that rent bikes and small motorized vehicles to day trippers. 

The walk begins on a road but soon joins the Fumao Old Trail福卯古道 which was the link between Fulong and Mao'Ao before the opening of the Northern Coastal Highway.  

This is an easy to moderate walk. It is mostly level--though it does climb a bit in the first half and then heads down toward the coast in the second half.

There are a number of old stone houses in the area. The route I walked only passes one of them but there is an option to take a side trip to see others. The area is home to a large population of Reeves muntjac deer. I've heard or seen them every time I have come here. 

Here are two nearby walks that include the other stone houses: 

Shicheng石城 to Longlong Mountain 隆隆山 Ridge Walk and Longlong Mountain Ancient Houses

Fumao Old Trail, Longlong Mountain and Revisiting the Longlong Mountain Ancient Stone Houses  

What to bring:   Not much is needed. I took water and some food but there are convenience stores and restaurants in Fulong and restaurants in Mao'ao.

Transportation: The trail is within walking distance of Fulong Train Station and there is frequent service to the station. From Taipei local trains take about an hour and a half or less and express trains just a little over an hour. You can check the schedule here: https://tip.railway.gov.tw/tra-tip-web/tip?lang=EN_US

After the hike, I took bus 865 back to Fulong but I suppose it would be possible to call a taxi, too. 

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The Hike

I arrived at Fulong station and started walking at about 9:50. It had rained heavily overnight but had stopped toward early morning and the forecast said no chance of rain for the rest of the day. It had been hot and sticky the night before but the rain had brought cool, overcast weather. As I set out it was a little cool wearing only a t-shirt and pants but I knew I would warm up while walking. 

Exiting the station I took a right and walked along Lane 2, Fulong Street which later becomes Guishougu Street. Fulong is less busy in the morning but there were already some cyclists --on either road bikes or electric bikes-- on the road and gathering outside the convenience store.

After ten minutes I came to Laoliao Street and turned left.  The road passed over a stream and passed a business renting bikes, then became a narrow country lane passing traditional houses. 

Lailao Street--second road on the left after leaving the station

 Less than ten minutes later I came to the trailhead. It was clearly marked by hiking flags. 

 

The trail is at first a concrete track. I had been here just one week before but it seemed different after the rain. The moss covered track was brilliant and emerald green and the stream next to the path was turgid and swift. I passed an Earth god shrine. 

I came to a point where the concrete track curved to the left leading to a house but the trail went straight. It climbed steps made of earth and wood and later, stone.

Later the path was a rutted muddy track but I was pleased to see that it was not very slippery even after heavy rain. I had been here before so didn't take a lot of pictures. I passed a couple of landmarks. There was a huge concrete slab--the ruins of an old foot bridge--that was askew but still usable. 

The path passed a farm plot. In front of a short path leading to the farm, there was a creepy collection of female mannequin torsos.

 

I came to the Lai family stone house. It is located at probably a little less than the halfway point. There is one smaller structure and two larger ones. Just before reaching the house there is a trail on the right that runs parallel to the main path at first and then goes away from it. This path leads to the Chen and Xiao family stone houses. They are well worth a look but I had just been there one week earlier, so after looking around the Lai family house, I kept going straight. 

The trail climbed slightly and drew near a road. I could hear occasional traffic but could not see the road. I came to a crossroads, with two paths on the right, one that goes straight at first and a short path on the left that leads to the road. 

I took the second path on the right. (The first one leads to the summit of Longlong Mountain). But before I did, I walked out to the road. While I was on the road I heard 2 or 3 hikers coming up from Mao'ao and taking the turn to Longlong Mountain but I I didn't see them and they never knew I was there. 

 The  path from the crossroads to Mao'Ao was wide and easy though there were some steep parts near the end. It was covered with leaf litter and passed through a forest of short, twisty trees.  I passed two side trails (alternative descents to the village) but I stayed on the wide, main path. As I was making my way down the sun came out for the first time that day. 

I saw several Reeves muntjac deer on the path. I got a good look at the first two, right in the middle of the path. I froze and they stiffened and froze but bolted before I could even get my phone out of my pocket. Later I saw some more just off the path but they were gone quickly, too. 

Finally, I saw two grazing right on the path and they did not see me. One wandered off the path but I did manage to get a picture of the other one even though it was from far away. 

 As I got closer to the end I could hear the sound of the sea. Finally the trail ended behind a police station. 

 I crossed the road, walked down a lane and turned right along the seawall toward the village. The sea was rough and long, waves rolled into shore.

 I walked around the village and checked out the Guanyin Temple and the harbor. There were several restaurants but I had packed a lunch. I went to a shelter house at the end of the village and ate my lunch looking at the sea and the village.

There was a footpath that went along the water. I followed it for a while but eventually I came to a dead end and turned back. 

 While I was in the village I got a message from my wife asking me to collect "a lot, a lot" of leaves for a project for her class. So after lunch I walked back up the path stuffing leaves into my backpack. By the time I got back to the bus stop I only had 30 minutes to wait for the bus. 

A young, Taiwanese guy --about my son's age--also got on and we talked a little. I was surprised to see a guy his age out also out exploring the village on his own. The bus took us to the Fulong visitors center. Its just a short walk across the road and uphill to the train station. 

 

Nearby walks: 

Shicheng石城 to Longlong Mountain 隆隆山 Ridge Walk and Longlong Mountain Ancient Houses  

Fumao Old Trail, Longlong Mountain and Revisiting the Longlong Mountain Ancient Stone Houses 

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Map and GPS coordinates:

Fumao Old Trail trailhead: 25.013892, 121.955887

Lai old stone house: 25.00986, 121.970831

Mao'Ao fishing port:  25.012545, 121.991524 Google maps link

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