Guanyinshan: Lingyun Temple 開山凌雲寺, Big Rock Wall 大岩壁 and Tough Guy Peak 硬漢嶺步道

Guanyinshan Scenic Area is a series of volcanic peaks rising like an island from the surrounding land. It provides habitat for countless insects, lizards, snakes, mammals and birds. It is especially known as a good place to spot raptors. Migratory raptors pass through from March to May and there are raptors that make their home here all year round. It is also a popular outdoor playground for hikers, cyclists, recreational drivers and families. The route described in this post passes colorful Lingyun Temple and Monastery, follows one of the steeper, rougher trails up and down a few small peaks and then climbs steps to one of the most popular spots, Yinghanlin (or Tough Guy Peak), which has a fantastic view on a clear day. 

Distance/Time: 6.7 km/ 4 hours 5 mins. A map as well as more information can be found on here

What to bring:  I took some snacks/lunch and 3 liters of water. I took a hiking pole but ended up strapping it to my backpack because it got in the way on the really steep parts. There are convenience stores near the bus stop in Luzhou and some vending machines selling drinks at the visitors center.  

An offline map is a good idea because there are so many trails.

The Trail:  Guanyinshan, a dormant volcano, gets it's name because it is thought to resemble the profile of Guanyin, the goddess of mercy, lying on her back. From certain perspectives the resemblance is distinct. There are considered to be up to 18 peaks in the Guanyinshan scenic area. Some of the peaks are known by more than one name. 

Officially it is part of the North Coast and Guanyinshan National Scenic area which includes Yeliu, Jinshan and Cape Fugui but the Guanyinshan area is distinct both geographically and in terms of it's landscape. Guanyinshan is in the Wugu District of New Taipei City.

There are numerous trails criss-crossing the entire area. The main trails are stone with lots of steps but there are also many fun, challenging dirt trails. 

This a moderate to strenuous hike. It is not too long but parts of it are extremely steep and can be slippery. There are a lot of fixed ropes and from occasionally all four limbs are required. The feature known as Dayanbi or Big Rock Wall is close to a 90 degree climb. The path I took to Guanyinshan (also known as Yinghanling or Tough Guy Peak/Ridge) is a popular trail made of stone steps with rest areas along the way. However, it is a steep climb. It became known as Tough Guy Peak when it was used to train military police in the 1960s. Guanyinshan is number 5 on the list of Taiwan's 100 small mountains (Xiao Bai Yue 小百岳).

The view from Guanyinshan is amazing on a clear day. Looking south you can see the river, Guandu Bridge and parts of Beitou. Looking north there is Bali, Tamsui, Shalun Beach and the river meeting the ocean.

On the day of this hike, a humid, hot day in spring, the park seemed jungle-like and was brimming with life. Flowers bloomed everywhere and I saw many birds, lizards, butterflies, bees and other insects.

Transportation:  I took the MRT to Luzhou Station. From there I caught bus O20 and took it to the Guanyinshan Visitors Center stop. It took about 20 minutes.  The bus does not run very frequently and I had trouble finding out exactly when it would come to Luzhou Station. I got there early and had to hang around the park a while. The bus I took came around 9:30.

On the way back I took the same bus at 15:00. People started to line up about 30 minutes before the bus came so I got in line to make sure I was able to get on. The return schedule is posted in the Visitors Center parking lot. The times on the left are for weekdays and the ones on the right are for Saturdays and Sundays.

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The hike:  I had gone hiking in Guanyinshan about a month before the hike described in this post and decided to go back and explore some more. The more that I visit the more impressed I am. Here is a link to the previous hike: Guanyinshan Bike and Hike: Guandu Bridge, Jianshan, Guanyinshan, Yingzai Peak and Chaoyin Cave

I had hiked here before but a long time ago and since I do not live very far away I feel like I have been neglecting an outdoor recreation area that is basically right in my backyard.

When I got on the bus in Luzhou I took a seat near the back and after a few moments noticed something odd. It seemed like the driver had an affection for monkeys. The area above the drivers seat was tightly packed with stuffed monkeys and more monkeys were hanging from the bars running down the aisle. On the air vents there were toy monkey heads and in some of the places where ads usually are, there were drawings of monkeys.  

What I found strange was that the driver was a youngish to middle aged guy with a dour face wearing dark sunglasses. My point is that he looked very serious. When I think of someone who would decorate a bus with monkeys I think of someone very friendly--perhaps a smiling grandfatherly type who likes to talk to children.  This guy didn't talk to or smile at anyone.  And this has nothing to do with the monkeys, but he drove the bus like it was a race car. 

I actually wanted to get off at the Lingyun Temple stop but I missed it (Probably because the driver barely seemed to come to a stop before roaring off again) and went all the way to the Visitor's Center stop. This turned out alright because I got to walk a short elevated trail called the Treetop Walkway which was really pleasant.

I started hiking around 10 am. The bus let me off in a parking lot. Just past the covered bus shelter I turned right and took a road downhill.

I passed through a park and keeping to the left I then came to the Treetop Walkway.

 For a few minutes I alternated between walking on a shady road and the walkway.
 

In 15 minutes or less I took a path on the left side of the road leading uphill to toilets. 

I took the uphill path on the left here

I passed in front of the toilets and then took a narrow trail downhill. At first it was stone steps and then a thin dirt trail. In a few minutes I came to the back of the monastery. 

I passed behind the monastery and then took stone steps all the way down to the temple. There were signs indicating the way to the temple.

Behind Lingyun Monastery

Lingyun Temple was first built in 1739. It was later destroyed and rebuilt. 

 

Here the temple can be seen with the monastery and mountains behind it

I went back up the steps and took a side path to see the monastery which was added to the temple complex in 1909. Some sort of service was happening inside and I could hear a gong and loud, harmonious chanting. I went in and climbed to the second floor. There was a nice view down into the valley. 

To enter the area where the ceremony was talking place I had to remove my shoes. There were lots of people standing in an attitude of prayer and chanting. In the back of the hall stood the thousand-hand thousand-eye statue of Guanyin. I took a video but I felt self-conscious openly filming the ceremony, so I didn't hold the camera very high. It didn't turn out well and I deleted it. 

Lingyun Monastery

I went back to the steps and climbed them again. Just after I passed through a rectangular brick arch and came level with the back of the monastery again, I took the trail on the right. 

I passed the junction for the trail to Yingzai Peak. I had walked to it the previous month on my way to Chaoyin Cave. But now I kept straight. 

I came to two dirt trails on the left.

I took the first one which is the steepest and most fun of the two. Both are nice trails though and both lead to Yinhanling (Tough Guy Peak, also known as Guanyinshan). 

 I climbed up and in less than ten minutes came the top of a ridge and to a lookout point with a view over Jianshan. 

 Another hiker was there and he cordially made room to share the very small clearing at the viewpoint. Clouds were drifting through the valley and the view kept changing. 

I went on and took the next side trail to another little peak. There was an inviting looking chair on the flat peak and I sat for a while though it was now cloudy and there wasn't much of a view. 

 Immediately after the flat summit with the chair, there is another path on the left but this one just leads back down to the main trail.  I had gone over the first big hump of the trail and now started down the other side. 

The next side trail on the left leads down to a narrow pinnacle called Shancaiyan (421m).  The trail to it was extremely steep and slippery.
 

Looking back up toward another hiker

The trail to the peak is to the right just at the bottom of the steep slope but at first I went to0 far. I descended all the way till I could see the stone trail I had walked earlier, realized my mistake and had to backtrack. I went back to the bottom of the slope turned left (when facing uphill) and then at a junction went to the left to pass through some grass and climb to the stony peak.

View from the top

Looking down at the monastery from Shancaiyan

There are paths all over this area. I took an easier, less steep trail back to the main ridge path. Next I dropped down further and then started to climb Dayanbi (Big Rock Wall). 

Some people were coming down and I waited until they finished because I did not want to use the ropes at the same time. It is precipitous but actually it's not a hard climb.

 I went up further and came to a rest area with crude benches made of wood planks and bricks. There was a couple resting there and we chatted about hiking trails in Taiwan for a while.

rest area

 Soon after leaving the rest area I came to a part of the trail made from earth filled tires and a junction.

 I wanted to follow the left fork to another small peak but I took it and soon came to a dead end with yellow tape across it. So I went back and took the right fork. 

This trail descended and came to a Y-junction with a big dead stump in the middle. I turned left--downhill.

I really enjoyed this part of the trail which was shady and dropped down through lush forest until it reached the main path to Yinhanling. 

 

 

Now I started up the steps to the peak. This is a much more popular trail and I started to see many more hikers including families with children. It took me about 50 minutes to climb to the top from here including a stop at a rest area for a bite to eat. 

rest area

 

In this picture the peak, with it's array of antennae can be made out

I passed a side trail to a view point where there was a stone plaza, shelter houses and toilets but it was too cloudy to see anything from the viewing platform. The peak is just 150 meters further. 

Just before reaching the 616 meter peak there is a massive stone archway with golden lettering on the sides and top. Then there is a stone stele that seemed like a popular spot to have your picture taken and a viewing platform. 

The view was not very good on this day but it was it was cool and breezy on the peak which was very enjoyable. 

I sat on the steps near the stele, had another snack and after a while headed back down. 

When I came to a trail with a sign pointing to the Visitors Center, I turned right. 

There were two trails here. 

I took the stone path on the right but I think they join up later.

 

This pretty trail ended at a lane where there were vendors, some houses and farms.

 

 I just kept following the signs for the Visitor's Center. The only part where I was in doubt was when I came to a parking lot and the sign for the Visitor's Center pointed right. I thought at first I had to walk through the parking lot but the correct way was down a set of steps just past the parking lot and then along a path. 

When I got to the Visitor's Center I still had 53 minutes till the bus came. I took a look around. I walked to the trailhead for the Niugangling Trail but decided to save it for another day. The Visitors Center has a nice 3D model of the mountain and there is an exhibit hall with information about wildlife. There is also a cafe and the Air Disaster Monument which commemorates the crash of a military plane during a training exercise in the 1950s. 

Air Disaster Monument

Nearby Hikes:  Guanyinshan Bike and Hike: Guandu Bridge, Jianshan, Guanyinshan, Yingzai Peak and Chaoyin Cave

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Map and GPS coordinates:

Lingyun Temple: 25.125458, 121.425277

Shancaiyan: 25.128565, 121.427244

Yinhanling (Guanyinshan): 24.136035, 121.426692

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Hukou Old Street, 湖口老街 and Hangqing 漢卿步道 , Renhe 仁和步道 and Jinshi 金獅步道 Historic Trails

A train ride, a quaint old street, a catholic church, temples, ruins in the forest and pretty walking trails: when a new rail line was built and the train station was moved, Hukou was divided between old and new Hukou and old Hukou went into decline. The old street which has been restored as a tourist attraction is small but a visit to the old street combined with a walk make a trip to this rural community in Hsinchu a very pleasant day out. It is known as a good area for viewing the white blossoms of the tung tree which typically bloom from mid-April to May and cover the ground in white heaps that is called "May snow."

Distance/Time: 6.4km/ 2h 36 min. A map as well as more information can be found here

What to bring:  Nothing is really needed. We just took water and ate lunch at the old street after we finished. Just about any good pair of shoes will do on the trails. There are shops near the train station and the old street.

The Trail: This is an easy to moderate walk. We started at the old street then walked the short Hangqing Historic Trail to Ox Cart Station and Tank Park. After that we walked back to a road and to the Renhe and Jinshi Historic Trails which together form a loop. 

The trails are gentle and easy though there are steps and one long hill. These paths were part of trails formerly used to transport agricultural products.  Some are paved or gravel and some are dirt. Parts of the trail are close to a highway but the hum of the traffic didn't bother me and faded as we moved away. There were lots of flowers, butterflies, dragonflies and birds.

For such a short walk there is a lot to see. Attractions include: 

Hukou Catholic Church

Hukou Old Street

San Yuan Temple

Ox Cart Station and Tank Park

A couple of elaborate tombs including the Lou Family Columbarium

Wanshan Temple

Maiden Shrine

Tea Garden Trail

Jinshan (Golden Lion) Temple

Yihe Villa (an abandoned former residence) and other ruins

Transportation: We took a local train from Taipei to Hukou. Trains leave frequently and most take between an hour and an hour and 20 minutes. 

It's 3.4 km from the train station to the old street. There are buses but they are infrequent so we took a taxi which cost $150 NT. 

On the way back we borrowed Ubikes from the station near San Yuan Temple and rode to the train station which was mostly downhill and a really nice ride.

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The trip: My wife, who is not usually a hiker, joined me for this trip equipped with a brand new pair of hiking boots. We arrived at the old street just after 10 am. 

The taxi dropped us off in front of Hukou Catholic Church which occupies the site of the original train station. It was built under the aegis of an Italian Catholic priest, Father Marsecano, in 1958. Construction was completed in 1965. The church actually closed for about 30 years but later was restored and is now used for community activities as well as religious services.

interior of the church

 

Hukou's original train station was established in 1887 but in 1929 the station was moved as part of the construction of a new railway line-- an event which changed the center of commercial activity in the town.  Later the old street was restored and became a tourist attraction. However, it still seems less popular than other well-known old streets and for me this is part of it's appeal because it is less touristy and crowded. There are lots of shops selling snacks and restaurants serving Hakkanese cuisine but not as many shops selling touristy souvenirs or cheap plastic toys as in other popular places. When we arrived it was still early and not much was going on.
 

elderly residents chatting and cats relaxing outside of a shop

former Hukou movie theater

At the end of the street there was an area with games for kids including bagatelle machines, ring toss games and a pool where children can "fish" for toy, plastic animals. 

We had some red bean che lun bing (wheel cakes) and while my wife went to the public toilet I checked out San Yuan Temple.

San Yuan Temple

interior court yard of San Yuan Temple

 We turned right after the temple, passed the public toilets and the Ubike station and walked to the end of a large parking lot.

We turned right again onto a road and in a few minutes turned into a tunnel on the left which passed under highway 1.

When we came out of the tunnel the Hangqing Bu Dao was directly across the street. At first it is a dirt path and then becomes a stone track with steps. As we were walking my wife attracted several mosquitos and welts rose on her arms but none bit me.  It seemed she was more palatable to mosquitos and I was grateful to her for keeping them away from me.

The trail climbed for a short way then leveled out, passed a view point and reached a road. The entire track is just over 300 meters and terminates at Ox Cart Station which used to be a rest stop for farmers transporting goods to market. There is a building but it was closed when we were there. 

A fork on the right leads through Tank Park where there are a tank, artillery and amphibious landing vehicles.

A sign post indicated another trail straight ahead but we didn't see it and I couldn't find it on the map. Later I watched a video by Tony Huang, a well-known Taiwanese hiking vlogger, which indicated that the road itself is the trail. There are some other sites of interest on this road but we did not go that way. 

We took the Hanqing Historic Trail back to the road. 

On the way down our conversation went something like this: Oh, more mosquitos. (slapping). I haven't felt any. How are your new boots? Good! They feel fine. Oh! What's wrong? An insect. This is very slippery. I don't think it's slippery. It's dry. It could be slippery if raining. Heavy rain.  Oh, we are already back at the road.  

At the road we turned right ---now walking on the right side of the highway. 

There were a few groups of walkers coming the opposite way down the road. We passed two tombs and Wanshan temple but I only took a picture of the second tomb.

When we passed the Lou Family Columbarium, I remarked that it looked like an interesting tomb and started to climb the steps but my wife, who can be superstitious and nervous about this sort of thing, instructed me to not even look in that direction and walked away quickly. I took a picture of the second one, I thought surreptitiously, but she noticed and told me it was rude to take a picture of it and again walked ahead quickly.  Outside the small Wanshan Temple there were some people praying and burning ghost money. She told me that it is a temple for people (deceased) who don't have families to pray for them or who are unidentified.

We came to an elevated HSR railway that went into a tunnel in the hill. Renhe trail starts just before getting to the HSR line. At first we continued on the road and up a hill but soon realized our mistake and started walking back to the trail.

Ren He Historic Trail

As we were walking back, we heard a high speed train coming. The sound of the approaching train grew and grew in volume until suddenly it burst from the tunnel, shot by and seemed to be gone in just a moment. 

We got back to the fork and started walking on the well-maintained path. Shortly we came to a junction. The path on the right is Jinshi Trail but we went straight.

 

Next we passed Maiden Shrine. There was a sign with information but I couldn't make out what it meant even after using an app to translate it into English and was left illuminated.

In fact most of the sign talked about how this was a well-known place to appreciate tong blossoms-- and in just a few minutes we passed a tree with a spray of fallen white blossoms all around it.

The path went straight, still near the highway and then turned sharply right where stone steps went up a hillside. This was the most strenuous part of the hike. It was humid and warm for April and we started to sweat. But even this part was not too hard. There were a couple of rest spots with benches. 

 

 
It wasn't long till we reached the top then went down the other side and came to a T-junction. 

We turned left and came to the Tea Garden trail. There were rows of tea bushes and a red earth path. We could hear birds singing in the trees surrounding the tea fields and saw a colorful Taiwan Barbet in the top of one tree. We walked around a bit but didn't explore much because it looked like it went on for a long way and kind of all looked the same. 

We went back to the entrance of the tea trail and straight down a road. (If facing the tea field when coming from the Ren He Historic Trail, this would be a right turn)

Walking along the road we could see Jinshi Temple below. When we came to another road we turned right and following the road around a curve to the temple where we stopped for a short rest. 

Jinshi (Golden Lion) Temple

We walked back to the bend in the road. There were two trailheads parallel to one another.  The trail on the left is older and shorter but made from rounded, moss covered stones that look like they would be treacherous when wet. 

We took the longer but easier trail on the right which passed through a shelter house and curved down a hill next to a stream bed. 

We passed the ruins of three structures. The first was obscured by leaves and had a small statue of Christ in front of it. Looking inside it appeared that it was a small abandoned chapel.

Next there was a dilapidated toilet and a small building across a deep, dry culvert. 

At the bottom of the hill was an arched stone bridge. 

To the left there was a pond with lots of fish, and an archway leading into a derelict garden. This is Yihe Villa. I tried to find out more about it but only read that it was a "former residence." One blog referred to it as a monastic residence. In the garden there were busts of Chiang Kai Shek and Sun Yet Sen.

We crossed the bridge and it wasn't long till the dirt path led us back to the junction we had passed earlier.

We turned left and followed the road back to the old street. There were a lot more people than in the morning. Day trippers were strolling down the street snacking and and several restaurants were crowded with diners. We had a lunch of Hakkanese noodles and vegetables. After lunch, we borrowed Ubikes and cycled back to the train station. All in all, Hukou exceeded my expectations and it was a really enoyable day. 

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Map and GPS coordinates:

Hukou Old Street: 24.87678, 121.055181

Google maps link

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