Xiufeng Waterfall, Dajianshan, Sifenweishan and Qiedong Waterfall

 

This hike in the Xizhi district of New Taipei City has just about everything: a temple, two peaks, views, a cave, four waterfalls and a swimming hole...and it starts just a short walk from Xizhi Train Station. Be prepared though. It's a long walk, there are lots of steep steps, some parts can be slippery and the last section is through deep forest on a rough trail where you may not see any other hikers until you emerge at the end. 

Distance/duration: 12.8 km/ 6 hours 48 minutes. It had rained a lot in the previous days and the trail was wet and slippery. In different conditions I might have gone faster.  

More details as well as a map can be found here on my ramblr account.

Trail Overview:  I rate this a hard walk because of the length, and because some parts are steep and/or slippery. The final section that drops down from Sifenweishan to Qiedong Waterfall is the most difficult because it is rough and relatively remote. Hikers who are not up for it could retrace their steps back down the mountain but this final section is well-worth it in my opinion, because of the spectacular series of cascades at the end.

The walk starts and ends at Xizhi Train Station. The first stop on my hike was Cihang Tang, a temple that is the resting place for a Bodhisattva. According to Richard Saunders' Taipei Escapes 1, Buddhist monk, Zi Hang predicted his own death in 1943 and after his death his body failed to decompose for 5 months. His body was covered in gold leaf and is now on display for the faithful in a stupa at the top of the temple complex. 

After the temple I followed a route that alternated between steps and road walking passing through Dragon Boat Cave on the way to Xiufeng Waterfall. After Xiufeng Waterfall I climbed to Dajianshan (Big Sharp Mountain, 460 meters). Dajianshan is a popular peak but the route I followed reaches it by way of a less popular trail. 

After that, I went along a wooded ridge to Sifenweishan (641 m) for more great views in every direction, then backtracked a short distance and took a trail that descends to Qiedong Waterfall and the series of cascades above it. Finally, I walked on the road back to Xizhi Station. 

After Qiedong Waterfall, there is another series of cascades known as the Dajianshan Waterfalls that can be reached from the road but I have never been to them. Years ago when I walked this trail, the falls were inaccessible but last year someone who had been there showed me pictures. It seems the path may be clear. However, on the this trip I decided not to explore them. The path was rocky and slippery and I had, had enough for the day. If you decide to try it, I advise caution. 

A lot of the trail on the first part of this hike is surfaced. There are some slippery stone steps leading to the first waterfall and to Dajianshan but they are not too bad.  There are steep parts that will get your heart rate going for sure. 

The path along the ridge between Dajianshan and Sifenweishan is the easiest and in some ways most pleasant section. It is wide with nice viewpoints along the way and the surface was dry. There is some climbing but it is not that steep. 

Take care on the descent from the ridge to Qiedong Waterfall. The path looked like it had been cleared recently but it was still narrow and there were many precarious sections down slippery, moss-covered stone steps. Thankfully there were ropes to help keep balance and even though some sections looked hard, I always found a secure place to put my feet.  

Xhizhi is a great place for hiking. This is the fourth in a series of posts exploring hikes around Xizhi. The other three are: 

Xizhi Gongbeidian 汐止拱北殿, and Beigang Hill 北港山 

Neigoushan 內溝山 , Cuei Lake 翠湖, and Laojiujian 老鷲尖  

Dream Lake 夢湖 and Mt. Xin 新山  

What to bring:  I packed food and about 3 liters of water. I recommend a hiking pole and a good pair of shoes is essential. 

Transportation:  I took a local train to Xizhi from Taipei Main Station. There are frequent trains and most take a little less than 20 minutes.  You can check the schedule here: https://tip.railway.gov.tw/tra-tip-web/tip?lang=EN_US

At Xizhi station, took the Xiufeng Road exit and started walking. 

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 The Hike 

I started walking at 7:36. It was a hot August morning. Outside the train station I walked to the corner and turned left onto Xiufeng Road. There was an athletic field on the right. 

After one block, I crossed a wide road and continued straight on Xiufeng Road, which suddenly became much narrower. There were lots of shops, including breakfast shops and convenience stores.  

I came to a fork with signs pointing in opposite directions: the Dajianshan Scenic Area to the right and the Ci-Hang Memorial Hall to the left. I turned left and started up the steep road to the temple. 
 

I

 I went straight up the shady bucolic road and through a temple arch. 

There was no one at the temple except for a caretaker using a leaf blower. The temple complex seemed labyrinthine and at first I didn't remember how to get to the reliquary at the top. But after some false starts and through trial and error, I found the way. 

I walked back down to the fork with the sign and turned left. I had spent about half an hour at the temple. 

Just after passing house # 76, I took a right into a short lane that led to steps. There was a temple, a sign in Chinese pointing the way to Dajianshan (大尖山) and the F911 bus stop. 

 

The steps climbed to a higher section of the road (most of steps here are shortcuts cutting out bends in the road), passing a shelter house on the way. 

Then it was right on the road, more steps, right on the road again and then; a temple (Tian Xiu Gong). The main path to Dajianshan is behind the temple but I wanted too see Xiufeng Waterfall first. 

road

steps

road

temple

 At the temple I walked by the hand washing area, toward the toilets, passed through a very wide, pleasant area with a concrete platform and stone tables and huge trees casting shade. Then down steps and left on the road. 

steps

road

Finally, I came to the trail/steps that lead to Xiufeng Waterfall. The right fork goes to the waterfall. 

 The path at first consisted of stone steps, then became a stone paved walkway and eventually gave way to a dirt path. On the way, I came to Dragon Boat Cave. You can go around the cave but who wouldn't want to walk through it? Finally, I arrived at the massive waterfall set in a rocky gorge. It was in fine form after the previous days' rain. Bands of white water meandered down a slick, brown rock face. 

Dragon Boat Cave

A small shrine just past Dragon Boat Cave

Xiufeng Waterfall

 I retraced my steps and took a right fork which leads to the steps to Dajianshan.

Right here to join the path to Dajianshan

steps

At the top of the steps I turned right behind a retaining wall and walked up to the road. 

road

 

The way was right on the road again and just a few meters down the road, the path to Dajianshan could be clearly seen on the left. Describing all of the turns to get to this point may make it sound complicated but really I just kept following the same twisting road with shortcuts between bends in the road. 
 

steps

 There was a stone table and some stools and I sat and had some water and dried fruit. While I was resting an old woman hiking by herself came down the steps. She said she had gone the wrong way. "Oh. Wo zou cuole." She seemed to be talking to herself but I asked here where she wanted to go. She said Xiufeng Waterfall and I told her the way. 

After resting I made my way to Dajianshan. It took about 15 minutes to climb to the top. 

The summit and view point are to the left.

  

There were a lot of hikers here, some standing around chatting, some panting from the climb. The main (and more popular trail) to the summit climbs from the temple (Tian Xiu Gong) and reaches the top just next to the summit. 

After a rest I headed SE along the ridge --passing the trail I had climbed on the way up. There was a finger post pointing toward Sifenweishan.

It was 2 km to Sifenweishan. This was one of the most enjoyable sections of the hike. The trail was wide with good footing and it was good to stretch my legs. At first it was flat but later starting climbing. There were quite a few other hikers but there were also times when I did not see anyone. There is one fork but both ways soon join back together.  

 I stayed straight on the main trail but took note of two trails going down on the left as I got closer to the peak. Both lead to Qiedong Waterfall but my impression is that the second one is the better trail. 

This is the second side  trail leading to Qiedong Falls and the one I would take later.

 

Just shy of the summit I climbed a root and rock covered hill then went up a grassy knoll and then arrived at the top. There were two other people there and two more arrived just after me. 

It was very hot in the sun so I did not stay long. Furthermore, dark clouds were gathering in the east and we could hear rumbling thunder. All of us commented on it. The two previous days, in the city, I had been stranded temporarily by torrential thunderstorms that dumped buckets of water on the cityscape. I didn't want to be caught in that in the mountains if I could avoid it. 

I went back along the ridge and took the trail toward Qiedong Waterfall. I tried to make good time because of the thunder but the trail was so rough it wasn't possible to go quickly safely. It would take me about two hours to reach the waterfall. 
 

Tudigong (Earth God) shrine and bamboo grove

 

 

I had to watch almost every step and also was keeping an eye out for snakes. Despite this, I really enjoyed this part of the walk. I love the feeling I get when hiking when I am using all of my senses and am really dialed in. Time passes without me noticing because I am paying attention to each moment. It got cloudy and I heard more thunder but eventually the storm moved away and the sun came back out. The forest was beautiful and there was birdsong and the sound of flowing water. Occasionally, I heard a barking deer in the distance. 

At one point I was a little startled because I small bird took flight right next to me. I looked down and saw a small nest with tiny eggs inside on a rock right next to the trail. 

The bird perched on a branch for a moment and then disappeared into the foliage where it made distress noises. I moved on. Later I tried to identify it but I had only gotten a glimpse of it. 

I crossed two streams in quick succession, going down into a ravine and back up the other side. 
 

After this the path kept to the right of the stream which I could always hear. The track was sometimes faint but always easy to follow.

There are two forks and at both of them I kept to the left, always following the sound of the stream. On a previous hike I had missed the left turns and took another trail out to the road. If that happens you can still follow the road to Qiedong Waterfall but you miss out on the cascades above it. 

First left turn

I heard a rhythmic banging or chopping sound that was definitely not a natural sound to hear in the forest. Soon I passed two farmers working on a farm plot. I waved and they waved back and asked if I was by myself. The second left turn is just after passing through the farm. 

Second left turn

 From this point on, the trail kept close to the stream passing several waterfalls. Near the end I had to clamber over boulders and wade through shallow water. 

Finally ,I arrived at Qiedong Waterfall. I was tired and really hungry so I had some food first. There is a pool at the base of the waterfall that is perfect for soaking, so after eating I had a swim. Several swims. My clothes were so wet from sweat that it didn't matter if they got wet so I just wore them in the water. I thought it might clean them a little before the train ride home. 

 Qiedong Waterfall is accessible from the road so it is not a very secluded spot but there was no one else there when I arrived. Later three people (an older couple and what I assumed was their adult daughter) came and soaked their feet in the water. The husband/father started a conversation with me by asking if I was cold after swimming. (Surprisingly, I was a little, but it didn't take long to warm up again.) He seemed shocked that I had taken the train to Xizhi and then walked to the waterfall but I don't think he realized that I had walked over the mountain. 

I am not sure how long I stayed at the waterfall but eventually I decided to move on. I went out to the road and turned left. The trail to the Dabajianshan Falls is less than 600 meters along the road.  

I had planned to see them at the end. I was reluctant to pass them up and I even took a few steps up the path. But I had already been walking for about 6 hours and I just decided that I had had enough of slippery paths for the day. I decided to walk back to the station. 

I kept following the road which eventually led through a housing development. After going through the main gate of the development I turned sharply downhill. There was a small store beside the road and I bought a cold soda. 

I kept on -- passing the steps I had took in the morning and the junction for Cihang Tang. When I arrived at the train station I was lucky that an express train to Taipei was arriving in just a few minutes. Sometimes Taiwan is so convenient. 

 

Nearby hikes:

 

Neigoushan 內溝山 , Cuei Lake 翠湖, and Laojiujian 老鷲尖  

 

Xizhi Gongbeidian 汐止拱北殿, and Beigang Hill 北港山 

  

Yuemei Cave Trail 月眉洞步道 and Xian Dong Hu Shan 仙洞湖山 Loop Hike 

 

Dream Lake 夢湖 and Mt. Xin 新山 

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Map and GPS coordinates:

Cihang Tang: 25.059312, 121.663811, Google maps link 

Xiufeng Waterfall: 25.048352, 121.66608, Google maps link 

Dajianshan: 25.051138, 121.668197, Google maps link 

Sifenweishan: 25.041151, 121.680672, Google maps link 

Qiedong Waterfall: 25.052958, 121.676491, Google maps link 

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