Xizhi Gongbeidian 汐止拱北殿, and Beigang Hill 北港山

 

Gongbei Temple and the path to Beigang Hill

Gongbeidian, a Taoist temple in the Xizhi District of New Taipei City first built in 1906, sits atop Sanxiu Mountain. It's agreeable to wander through the quiet temple grounds and there are good views from the front and back of the temple. You can even crawl through the Eight Fairies Cave at the back of the temple. Behind the temple there are stone pathways and plenty of stone benches and tables. For those looking for something a little less tamed, Beigang Hill (271 m) is reached by a rougher trial that lies beyond the temple grounds.  There is not much of a view but there is a flat clearing at the summit and it's a decent there-and-back walk of about an hour and 15 minutes.

Distance/duration: 2 hrs 56 mins/ 5.6 km.  At an easy pace and including time looking around the temple and eating lunch. 

More details as well as a map can be found here on my ramblr account.

Trail Overview: The paths around the temple are easy, surfaced and suitable for just about any one, including families with small children. There are really nice views of the city and surrounding green hills.  

Many people visit the temple in the fall to see the Japanese maples changing color. I visited in May and at that time the tung blossoms on the surrounding hills were in bloom. Every year in Taiwan in late April and in May the white tung blossoms open and later fall, covering the ground in what is known as "May snow." 

The paths behind the temple are reached by passing through the main temple hall. There is a renowned double-arch stone bridge on the temple grounds. According to the New Tapei Travel web site, it has gone "viral" and many people have their picture taken on it. I regret that I neglected to take a picture of the bridge but you can find many (definitely better than mine) online. When I was at the bridge two photographers were taking pictures of a young woman in traditional Chinese dress posing with a martial arts sword. 

The actual summit of Sixiushan is just off the path. Its a short scramble up a slippery slope with fixed ropes. At the back of the temple is Eight Fairies Cave. A short claustrophobic "cave" that you can pass through only by crouching. The Eight Fairies, also translated as the Eight Genies or Immortals, are a group of powerful immortals from Taoist mythology evoked in place names around Taiwan.

The path to Beigang Hill is rougher but still not too hard. It's mostly wide and pretty with a few rough, narrow parts.  It is not a popular trail but at the time I went, I could see the trail had been recently maintained. There are small side trails leading to electricity pylons and I guess it is kept in good shape for maintenance crew access. 

What to bring:  I found a hiking pole useful on the trail to Beigang Hill. I packed a picnic lunch and water. You can refill water bottles at the temple water dispenser.

Transportation:  I took a local train to Xizhi from Taipei Main Station. There are frequent trains and most take a little less than 20 minutes.  You can check the schedule here: https://tip.railway.gov.tw/tra-tip-web/tip?lang=EN_US

At Xizhi station, I exited through the main hall at the Xinyi Road exit. The buses going in the direction of Gongbeidian stop across the street. 

I took bus 587. It's 18 stops to the Gongbeidian stop and takes about 15 minutes. Bus 890 also goes there but it is less frequent and there is no service on weekends. 

Bus 587 was a mini bus. At first I had to stand but later there were empty seats.

 

On the way back, when I got to the bus stop I would have had to wait for a little over and hour so I called a taxi back to Xizhi station which cost NT$170.

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The Hike

There was a man and a woman on the bus dressed for hiking who also got off at the Gongbeidian stop. I took a few minutes taking pictures and they headed up the hill first-- leaving me alone. 

The road to Gongbei Temple forks off to the left of the main road and the temple can be seen on top of the hill.  

I started walking up the road soon passing through the red temple gate. It was quiet. The only sounds were birds and the muffled noise of traffic on the road below.

I passed a trail with steps on the left but I kept going until I came to a hairpin turn. There, just to the right of the road, was set of stairs that began between Japanese stone lanterns.

It was a short walk up the stairs to the temple parking lot. There was already a decent view from the edge of the lot. 

I went up to the temple by way of covered stairs. 

It was early and there weren't many people around yet. A very welcoming, smiling man was clearing the flat area in front of the temple with a leaf blower. There was a koi pond with colorful fish.

I followed signs and went up steps to the second level and the main temple hall.

Below is a map of the temple and surrounding trails. From the temple you can go either left or right. The brown dotted line at the top is the trail to Beigang Hill.

I walked to the left first, passing an activity hall and exiting the temple by a metal door. 

I walked in a big circle, passing over the double arched bridge. When I came to a shelter house I turned right and climbed up the short trail to the summit of Sanxiushan.

 

 

There is not much to see from the summit of Sanxiushan but it's just a few meters from the main path.

After that I passed the back of the temple and walked a circular route until I came to the trail for Beigang Hill.

 

I enjoyed this trail. For me just walking around the temple is not enough of a walk but adding the trail to the summit and back made the trip just satisfying enough to be worth the trip. 

At first the trail was narrow and passed above a neighborhood, the houses of which could be seen and heard below. After that it widened and moved away from the edge. 

 There was one short section with very slippery stone steps. I was glad when it became packed earth again. It passed through attractive sections of bamboo forest. 

There were side trails that mainly led to electricity pylons (though one led down to the neighborhood below) but I stayed on the main path. 

At a T-intersection, I turned left toward the summit.

After turning left the trail climbed for a while, dipped down again and then started the final short push up to the top. 

 The final ascent was through thick, old clusters of bamboo. I was feeling very alert and sort of jumpy like I sometimes do when hiking alone. I remember that when the bamboo creaked loudly in the wind I felt startled. 

I guess it was a good thing I was so alert because just as I reached the top I saw a big, fat Chinese cobra just to the right of the summit clearing. I said aloud to myself, "That's a cobra." Of course, most snakes avoid humans but cobras have a fearsome reputation. 

 

I stood close enough for it to be aware of me but what I felt was not close enough for it to feel threatened and after a few minutes it slithered away into the undergrowth. 

As I was on the summit I noticed it was getting pretty cloudy and in fact the afternoon forecast predicted a chance of rain, so on the way back to the temple I picked up the pace. 

Even though it got windy it never did rain. Back at the temple I went through the Eight Fairies Cave. It's really more of a tunnel than a cave. I feel claustrophobic and panic a little in tight places so I can't say I enjoyed the experience.

After that I went to the back of the temple and sat at one of the stone tables to eat my lunch before heading back down to the bus stop. 

Nearby walks: 

Yuemei Cave Trail 月眉洞步道 and Xian Dong Hu Shan 仙洞湖山 Loop Hike  

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Map and GPS coordinates:

Gongbeidian: 25.094347, 121.64207, Google maps link

Sanxiushan: 25.095086, 121.64148, Google maps link

Beigangshan: 25.104532, 121.635974, Google maps link

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Fumao Old Trail 福卯古道

 

Fumao Old Trail, the former route between Fulong and the coastal fishing village of Mao'ao, is a very nice, mostly-level, easy to moderate walk in the Gongliao District of New Taipei City that only takes about 2 hours. Near the mid-point it passes the ruins of old stone houses. The hike is basically a very pleasant walk in the woods that ends at the ocean. Mao'ao, a small village by the sea, has a harbor, a large temple, some traditional houses and a few restaurants. Afterwards, take the bus back to Fulong. 

 

Distance/duration: 5.7 km\ 2 hours

More details as well as a map can be found here on my ramblr account.

Trail Overview: The walk starts at Fulong Train Station. Fulong is a popular place-- especially on weekends. There is a beach and not far from here is the Old Caoling Tunnel, a former railway tunnel converted into a biking route. There is also a seaside cycling route. There are lots of places that rent bikes and small motorized vehicles to day trippers. 

The walk begins on a road but soon joins the Fumao Old Trail福卯古道 which was the link between Fulong and Mao'Ao before the opening of the Northern Coastal Highway.  

This is an easy to moderate walk. It is mostly level--though it does climb a bit in the first half and then heads down toward the coast in the second half.

There are a number of old stone houses in the area. The route I walked only passes one of them but there is an option to take a side trip to see others. The area is home to a large population of Reeves muntjac deer. I've heard or seen them every time I have come here. 

Here are two nearby walks that include the other stone houses: 

Shicheng石城 to Longlong Mountain 隆隆山 Ridge Walk and Longlong Mountain Ancient Houses

Fumao Old Trail, Longlong Mountain and Revisiting the Longlong Mountain Ancient Stone Houses  

What to bring:   Not much is needed. I took water and some food but there are convenience stores and restaurants in Fulong and restaurants in Mao'ao.

Transportation: The trail is within walking distance of Fulong Train Station and there is frequent service to the station. From Taipei local trains take about an hour and a half or less and express trains just a little over an hour. You can check the schedule here: https://tip.railway.gov.tw/tra-tip-web/tip?lang=EN_US

After the hike, I took bus 865 back to Fulong but I suppose it would be possible to call a taxi, too. 

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The Hike

I arrived at Fulong station and started walking at about 9:50. It had rained heavily overnight but had stopped toward early morning and the forecast said no chance of rain for the rest of the day. It had been hot and sticky the night before but the rain had brought cool, overcast weather. As I set out it was a little cool wearing only a t-shirt and pants but I knew I would warm up while walking. 

Exiting the station I took a right and walked along Lane 2, Fulong Street which later becomes Guishougu Street. Fulong is less busy in the morning but there were already some cyclists --on either road bikes or electric bikes-- on the road and gathering outside the convenience store.

After ten minutes I came to Laoliao Street and turned left.  The road passed over a stream and passed a business renting bikes, then became a narrow country lane passing traditional houses. 

Lailao Street--second road on the left after leaving the station

 Less than ten minutes later I came to the trailhead. It was clearly marked by hiking flags. 

 

The trail is at first a concrete track. I had been here just one week before but it seemed different after the rain. The moss covered track was brilliant and emerald green and the stream next to the path was turgid and swift. I passed an Earth god shrine. 

I came to a point where the concrete track curved to the left leading to a house but the trail went straight. It climbed steps made of earth and wood and later, stone.

Later the path was a rutted muddy track but I was pleased to see that it was not very slippery even after heavy rain. I had been here before so didn't take a lot of pictures. I passed a couple of landmarks. There was a huge concrete slab--the ruins of an old foot bridge--that was askew but still usable. 

The path passed a farm plot. In front of a short path leading to the farm, there was a creepy collection of female mannequin torsos.

 

I came to the Lai family stone house. It is located at probably a little less than the halfway point. There is one smaller structure and two larger ones. Just before reaching the house there is a trail on the right that runs parallel to the main path at first and then goes away from it. This path leads to the Chen and Xiao family stone houses. They are well worth a look but I had just been there one week earlier, so after looking around the Lai family house, I kept going straight. 

The trail climbed slightly and drew near a road. I could hear occasional traffic but could not see the road. I came to a crossroads, with two paths on the right, one that goes straight at first and a short path on the left that leads to the road. 

I took the second path on the right. (The first one leads to the summit of Longlong Mountain). But before I did, I walked out to the road. While I was on the road I heard 2 or 3 hikers coming up from Mao'ao and taking the turn to Longlong Mountain but I I didn't see them and they never knew I was there. 

 The  path from the crossroads to Mao'Ao was wide and easy though there were some steep parts near the end. It was covered with leaf litter and passed through a forest of short, twisty trees.  I passed two side trails (alternative descents to the village) but I stayed on the wide, main path. As I was making my way down the sun came out for the first time that day. 

I saw several Reeves muntjac deer on the path. I got a good look at the first two, right in the middle of the path. I froze and they stiffened and froze but bolted before I could even get my phone out of my pocket. Later I saw some more just off the path but they were gone quickly, too. 

Finally, I saw two grazing right on the path and they did not see me. One wandered off the path but I did manage to get a picture of the other one even though it was from far away. 

 As I got closer to the end I could hear the sound of the sea. Finally the trail ended behind a police station. 

 I crossed the road, walked down a lane and turned right along the seawall toward the village. The sea was rough and long, waves rolled into shore.

 I walked around the village and checked out the Guanyin Temple and the harbor. There were several restaurants but I had packed a lunch. I went to a shelter house at the end of the village and ate my lunch looking at the sea and the village.

There was a footpath that went along the water. I followed it for a while but eventually I came to a dead end and turned back. 

 While I was in the village I got a message from my wife asking me to collect "a lot, a lot" of leaves for a project for her class. So after lunch I walked back up the path stuffing leaves into my backpack. By the time I got back to the bus stop I only had 30 minutes to wait for the bus. 

A young, Taiwanese guy --about my son's age--also got on and we talked a little. I was surprised to see a guy his age out also out exploring the village on his own. The bus took us to the Fulong visitors center. Its just a short walk across the road and uphill to the train station. 

 

Nearby walks: 

Shicheng石城 to Longlong Mountain 隆隆山 Ridge Walk and Longlong Mountain Ancient Houses  

Fumao Old Trail, Longlong Mountain and Revisiting the Longlong Mountain Ancient Stone Houses 

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Map and GPS coordinates:

Fumao Old Trail trailhead: 25.013892, 121.955887

Lai old stone house: 25.00986, 121.970831

Mao'Ao fishing port:  25.012545, 121.991524 Google maps link

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