Taiwan Hiking Journal

Sunday, June 1, 2025

Neigoushan 內溝山 , Cuei Lake 翠湖, and Laojiujian 老鷲尖

A very enjoyable hike in the Xizhi district of New Taipei City, this popular trail has a lot going for it: Jinlong Lake, Cuei Lake, exposed rocky ridges, good views throughout, a couple of thrilling summits and four peaks. But for all of that it is a relatively mellow walk on a pretty, and generally well-maintained trail. Highly recommended despite some challenges getting to the trailhead with public transportation.

Distance/duration: 6 hrs 7 min/ 9.9 km.

More details as well as a map can be found here on my ramblr account.

This could have been a lot shorter. My is guess it could be done in about 4 hours. We really took our time. Furthermore, I don't recommend anyone follow the first part of our track. To get from the Jinlong Lake bus stop to the trailhead, we ended up trespassing through a private gated community. I will explain and give options for getting to the trailhead in the transportation section below.

Trail Overview: The beginning part of the route we walked is on a feeder trail and not the main trail that most hikers take to Neigoushan. It is a nice, clear trail and I recommend it for those comfortable with somewhat rougher trails that get less traffic. It was very muddy when we walked it because it had rained for the previous three days. Once we joined the main trail to Neigoushan it was wider. We walked a more-or-less U-shaped route that followed a ridge and ended at Jinlong Lake.

Cuei Lake is a small, peaceful pond in a deep valley. There is some open water but most of it is filled with aquatic plants. There is a good trail all the way around the lake and there are benches and tables and flowers. It's a peaceful, secluded-feeling spot. The lake was formed during the Japanese colonial period when mining waste was dumped in the valley blocking the stream and creating the lake. It provides habitat for fish, frogs, birds and other wildlife.

There is an old mine site, the Beigang Erkeng Mine Site, downstream of Cuei Lake. Mining at the site began in 1901.

None of the peaks on the route are high but there are excellent views of the surrounding hills, Taipei City and nearby communities. There were some sunny areas but most of the time there was plentiful shade and a cooling, breeze even on a hot day. The trail surface was dirt, natural stone or wood steps. Some of the wooden steps had seen better days and it was better to walk on the packed earth next to them. Throughout the hike we saw lots of butterflies and saw and heard lots of bird life.

Neigoushan (137 m) is a rocky point reached by an exciting but not difficult climb up aluminum ladders. Laojiujian (193m) has a great view. It's a good place for spotting birds of prey floating on updrafts and is also called Laoyingjian or Eagle Peak. Other peaks include Laojiujian South Peak (157 m) and Xuetouposhan (120 m).

Jinlong Lake, at the end of the hike, is a large urban lake with a walking path around it's perimeter.

What to bring: I packed water and food. Sun protection is important on the exposed sections.

Transportation: I took a train from Taipei Main Station to Xizhi and met two friends there.

At Xizhi station, I exited through the main hall at the Xinyi Road exit. You can take bus 817 to Jinlong lake from the bus stop across the street.

I did not prepare very well for this hike. I had read that you could take the bus to Jinlong Lake and then walk to the trail head and I was pretty confident I could just look at the map and cut across the streets to the trail. As one of my old friends said before a hike in Arizona a long time ago, "It's no fun, if you plan too much." (Though I would also add that sometimes it can be a disaster if you don't plan enough.)

As an aside, on the Arizona hike we set off on a multi-day hike through a canyon with no idea how we would get home at the other end. On the way, we met two guys going the opposite way who had left a car at either end of the trail. One of the guys gave us the keys to his Saab and we drove his car to the other end (where our car was parked) and dropped it off for him.

The problem in this case was that in the area I planned to cut across, there was a private gated, community. We did walk through it but I definitely don't recommend going that way. We attracted the attention of security guards and it took longer than expected. I'd like to go back again and do this walk correctly and also hike Shuiwantanshan which we did not go to on this trip.

I think there are a few options for getting to the trailhead. The easiest might be to just get a taxi or Uber from Xizhi to the main Neigoushan trailhead (not the feeder trail that we started on). Here is the Google Maps link.

The best option by bus is probably to take the 817 to Jinlong Lake and walk around the east side of the lake toward the trail where we finished our hike. There instead of turning on the trail keep going north joining Lane 5, Hudong Street. Follow it for about 1 km next to the stream until you reach a trail just south of Cuei Lake and start the hike at the old mine site and Cuei Lake. That stream flows from Cuei Lake to Jinlong Lake.

Another option would be to take a bus to the Zhongshan Street Entrance bus stop which is near the trail we took. You could also walk along a footpath next to a stream for a little over 1 km to the main Neigoushan trailhead.

Bus 53 goes there from Donghu MRT Station.

Bus 630 and 646 and 903 go there from Huzhou MRT Station.

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The Hike

We got to Jinlong Lake and started walking a little after 8 am.

We walked around the western side of the lake and up a hill.

At the top, we were confused and asked a man if he knew the way to Neigoushan. He said we could get there through the community and asked if we had a key. He said it was lucky we had asked him (Hai hao ni you wen wo) and he opened a side door for us with his key card. It was a very clean, very nice community of private condominiums.

I felt conspicuous strolling through the community and it wasn't long before we attracted the attention of a security guard. I could see on the map that there was a trail to Neigoushan that started within the complex but when we checked it out we found that someone had cut grass clippings and brush and piled it all up in a huge mound to block the trail. It was clear they did not want people going that way. As we were checking out the trail, a security guard on a scooter told us we couldn't go that way and asked us where we wanted to go. He didn't really challenge us but his demeanor seemed to communicate that he would rather not have to deal with us. He told us the way to the da men (the main gate) and drove away.

At the main gate, another security guard, came out of the guard station and asked us more sharply Ni yao qu nali (Where do you want to go?). I guessed that the other guard had radioed him and told him to watch out for us.

Just outside the main gate of the community we passed the Zhongshan Street Entrance bus stop. I recommend starting here and taking the trail that we walked or alternatively walking along the stream-side path all the way to the main Neigoushan trailhead--which is a little over 1 km away.

We crossed the stream and turned north walking on the path next to the stream.

After 250 meters we turned right and crossed the stream again.

At the next corner we turned left into an alley and came to the trailhead which was at the end of a messy path going between a fence and a building.

At the end of the alley the trail became clear. We started up leaf strewn steps and we were finally on the way!

The trail meandered and went up and down a bit. It passed close to the community which we could see below through the trees. At the next junction, we turned right.

After just 1.2 km we came to a crossroads. The path on the left came up from the main Neigoushan trailhead, the path straight ahead went to Neigoushan and the path on the right led down to Cuei Lake. We decided to go right and see Cuei Lake first.

The path here was slippery and a bit steep and we had to take care. I could see on the map that we would need to make a bridge less stream crossing. As we got closer I could hear the water and was worried it might be high after the heavy rain. But actually it just took a couple of steps to cross.

We followed the trail to the left, going upstream next to the water. We came to a stone table and benches and a T-intersection where we stopped for a rest and a snack. (If we had first gone right after crossing the stream we could have visited the Beigang Erkeng mine site which is just a little bit downstream but I did not realize it until later. )

Turning left at the T-intersection we came to the lake after just a couple of minutes. We took the trail going around the right side. The lake is not very big and it did not take long to walk all the way around to the end and the other side where there was a rectangular clearing of packed earth.

We turned left at the clearing and just at the end of it came to a trail heading uphill (on the other side of a short wooden footbridge).

This trail took us back up to the top of the ridge in just a few minutes.

Now we were on the far side of Neigoushan so we had to backtrack (to the left) first to summit the peak. This was one of the most fun parts of the hike. The peak is reached by way of two aluminum ladders and a rocky path with fixed ropes.

The peak was smooth, dry stone. There were two benches. We stopped for another rest and some food.

We went back down the aluminum ladders and along the ridge. The trail from here was wide and easy. We followed signs for Laojiujian (老鷲尖). On the way we passed a nice view point. Looking toward Taipei we could see the Grand Hotel, the Shinkong Mitsukoshi department store building at Taipei Main Station and parts of Yangminshan National Park.

We climbed up a long, set of wooden steps--probably the most strenuous part of the whole hike.

At the top there was a side trail going up more steps to Laojiujian.

Laojiujian

You can go on to Shuiweitanshan from here but we went back down and continued following the ridge. (Turning left at the bottom of the steps leading to the peak.)

We went over Laojiujian South Peak and then the wide trail led us along a cliff looking over a valley.

Laojiujian South Peak

We came to an amazing view point which was reached by a thrilling climb up another ladder and along a narrow rocky spine. It was possible to take a trail around it instead but we couldn't resist and the view was incredible.

From here we just had to follow the ridge all the way down to Jinlong Lake but we still had a ways to go and some ups and downs, with views along the way.

We came to one rocky point where I crawled out onto a smooth stone promontory and lay there feeling the wind and watching it blowing the trees in the forest far below.

Getting closer to the city we passed along the top of a stone wall and looked down into the streets below and then went through a bamboo grove.

Xuetouposhan is reached near the end of the trail. There is no clearing and I would not have noticed it if it weren't for the summit sign. There is a big electricity pylon next to it. The trail went down wooden steps for the final stretch before finally reaching a road.

There was a map board and a sign pointing to Jinlong Lake. We turned left and followed the road to Jinlong Lake.

We followed Lane 5 Hudong Street to Mingfeng Street and turned left and walked to the 817 Jinlonghu bus stop.

Buses going back to Xizhi stop next to number 19 Mingfeng Street. But we decided to take the bus in the other direction from the stop across the road from a 7-11 which goes to Nangang Exhibition Hall MRT Station because it was coming sooner.

Nearby hikes:

Xizhi Gongbeidian 汐止拱北殿, and Beigang Hill 北港山

Yuemei Cave Trail 月眉洞步道 and Xian Dong Hu Shan 仙洞湖山 Loop Hike

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Map and GPS coordinates:

Trailhead where we started: 25.080091, 121.624983

Beigang Erkeng Mine Site: 25.087155, 121.630607

Cuei Lake: 25.089177, 121.628973

Neigoushan: 25.08906, 121.627381

Laojiujian Peak: 25.095899, 121.626152

Laojiujian South Peak: 25.094475, 121.627193

Xuetouposhan: 25.077372, 121.636513

Jinlong Lake: 25.074139, 121.632385

http://rblr.co/oxF3k

Saturday, May 10, 2025

Xizhi Gongbeidian 汐止拱北殿, and Beigang Hill 北港山

Gongbei Temple and the path to Beigang Hill

Gongbeidian, a Taoist temple in the Xizhi District of New Taipei City first built in 1906, sits atop Sanxiu Mountain. It's agreeable to wander through the quiet temple grounds and there are good views from the front and back of the temple. You can even crawl through the Eight Fairies Cave at the back of the temple. Behind the temple there are stone pathways and plenty of stone benches and tables. For those looking for something a little less tamed, Beigang Hill (271 m) is reached by a rougher trial that lies beyond the temple grounds. There is not much of a view but there is a flat clearing at the summit and it's a decent there-and-back walk of about an hour and 15 minutes.

Distance/duration: 2 hrs 56 mins/ 5.6 km. At an easy pace and including time looking around the temple and eating lunch.

More details as well as a map can be found here on my ramblr account.

Trail Overview: The paths around the temple are easy, surfaced and suitable for just about any one, including families with small children. There are really nice views of the city and surrounding green hills.

Many people visit the temple in the fall to see the Japanese maples changing color. I visited in May and at that time the tung blossoms on the surrounding hills were in bloom. Every year in Taiwan in late April and in May the white tung blossoms open and later fall, covering the ground in what is known as "May snow."

The paths behind the temple are reached by passing through the main temple hall. There is a renowned double-arch stone bridge on the temple grounds. According to the New Tapei Travel web site, it has gone "viral" and many people have their picture taken on it. I regret that I neglected to take a picture of the bridge but you can find many (definitely better than mine) online. When I was at the bridge two photographers were taking pictures of a young woman in traditional Chinese dress posing with a martial arts sword.

The actual summit of Sixiushan is just off the path. Its a short scramble up a slippery slope with fixed ropes. At the back of the temple is Eight Fairies Cave. A short claustrophobic "cave" that you can pass through only by crouching. The Eight Fairies, also translated as the Eight Genies or Immortals, are a group of powerful immortals from Taoist mythology evoked in place names around Taiwan.

The path to Beigang Hill is rougher but still not too hard. It's mostly wide and pretty with a few rough, narrow parts. It is not a popular trail but at the time I went, I could see the trail had been recently maintained. There are small side trails leading to electricity pylons and I guess it is kept in good shape for maintenance crew access.

What to bring: I found a hiking pole useful on the trail to Beigang Hill. I packed a picnic lunch and water. You can refill water bottles at the temple water dispenser.

Transportation: I took a local train to Xizhi from Taipei Main Station. There are frequent trains and most take a little less than 20 minutes. You can check the schedule here: https://tip.railway.gov.tw/tra-tip-web/tip?lang=EN_US

At Xizhi station, I exited through the main hall at the Xinyi Road exit. The buses going in the direction of Gongbeidian stop across the street.

I took bus 587. It's 18 stops to the Gongbeidian stop and takes about 15 minutes. Bus 890 also goes there but it is less frequent and there is no service on weekends.

Bus 587 was a mini bus. At first I had to stand but later there were empty seats.

On the way back, when I got to the bus stop I would have had to wait for a little over an hour so I called a taxi back to Xizhi station which cost NT$170.

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The Hike

A man and a woman dressed for hiking were on the bus who also got off at the Gongbeidian stop. I took a few minutes taking pictures and they headed up the hill first-- leaving me alone.

The road to Gongbei Temple forks off to the left of the main road and the temple can be seen on top of the hill.

I started walking up the road soon passing through the red temple gate. It was quiet. The only sounds were birds and the muffled noise of traffic on the road below.

I passed a trail with steps on the left but I kept going until I came to a hairpin turn. There, just to the right of the road, was set of stairs that began between Japanese stone lanterns.

It was a short walk up the stairs to the temple parking lot. There was already a decent view from the edge of the lot.

I went up to the temple by way of covered stairs.

It was early and there weren't many people around yet. A very welcoming, smiling man was clearing the flat area in front of the temple with a leaf blower. There was a koi pond with colorful fish.

I followed signs and went up steps to the second level and the main temple hall.

Below is a map of the temple and surrounding trails. From the temple you can go either left or right. The brown dotted line at the top is the trail to Beigang Hill.

I walked to the left first, passing an activity hall and exiting the temple by a metal door.

I walked in a big circle, passing over the double arched bridge. When I came to a shelter house I turned right and climbed up the short trail to the summit of Sanxiushan.

There is not much to see from the summit of Sanxiushan but it's just a few meters from the main path.

After that I passed the back of the temple and walked a circular route until I came to the trail for Beigang Hill.

I enjoyed this trail. For me just walking around the temple is not enough of a walk but adding the trail to the summit and back made the trip just satisfying enough to be worth the trip.

At first the trail was narrow and passed above a neighborhood, the houses of which could be seen and heard below. After that it widened and moved away from the edge.

There was one short section with very slippery stone steps. I was glad when it became packed earth again. It passed through attractive sections of bamboo forest.

There were side trails that mainly led to electricity pylons (though one led down to the neighborhood below) but I stayed on the main path.

At a T-intersection, I turned left toward the summit.

After turning left the trail climbed for a while, dipped down again and then started the final short push up to the top.

The final ascent was through thick, old clusters of bamboo. I was feeling very alert and sort of jumpy like I sometimes do when hiking alone. I remember that when the bamboo creaked loudly in the wind I felt startled.

I guess it was a good thing I was so alert because just as I reached the top I saw a big, fat Chinese cobra just to the right of the summit clearing. I said aloud to myself, "That's a cobra." Of course, most snakes avoid humans but cobras have a fearsome reputation.

I stood close enough for it to be aware of me but what I felt was not close enough for it to feel threatened and after a few minutes it slithered away into the undergrowth.

As I was on the summit I noticed it was getting pretty cloudy and in fact the afternoon forecast predicted a chance of rain, so on the way back to the temple I picked up the pace.

Even though it got windy it never did rain. Back at the temple I went through the Eight Fairies Cave. It's really more of a tunnel than a cave. I feel claustrophobic and panic a little in tight places so I can't say I enjoyed the experience.