Tuesday, June 28, 2022

Wuzhishan 五指山 Five Finger Mountain

A moderate ascent through coniferous forest that connects five peaks (four of them over 1000 meters), a very steep, jungle-like descent and a deep rock-crevice known as "a thread of sky."  Five Finger Mountain in Beipu Township, Hsinchu is named for its peaks--each one named after a finger. On this trip we hiked only three peaks climbing to the highest point and then going back down.

Distance/Time:  4.6 km/ 3 hours 40 minutes.  More information as well as a map can be found here: http://rblr.co/OeE1l

The Trail: The route that we walked was a moderate hike. On the way up there were some steep parts but actually it was not very challenging and we reached the highest peak much faster than I expected. However, the very steep, very slippery trail we took on the way down was more difficult.  Walkers who want to avoid this decent could just go back down the same way as on the way up. 

It is also possible to make this walk longer and more challenging. We only hiked three peaks but there are five and actually there is a sixth peak in the area Da Ai Shan 大隘山 (862 m) that could be included before starting up Wuzhishan.  

There had been afternoon thunderstorms in the week before we went so the path was wet. The trail on the way up was wide and a mixture of stone steps, wooden steps, boardwalks and dirt. The trail we took on the way down was narrow, lush and there were lots of ropes and straps to hold onto. 

 It was a very hot day in June but there was plentiful shade and a comfortable breeze.  It was clear that summer had arrived because all day the air was filled with the loud singing of cicadas. 

Wuzhishan is number 31 on the list of small 100 peaks of Taiwan: https://zh.m.wikipedia.org/zh-tw/%E5%8F%B0%E7%81%A3%E5%B0%8F%E7%99%BE%E5%B2%B3%E5%88%97%E8%A1%A8

 What to bring: Nothing other than the usual things. The path is mostly shaded but I put on sunscreen and wore a hat. Good hiking shoes are essential. I took plenty of water and packed a sandwich and snacks.

Transportation: This hike is not accessible by public transportation. Four of us went in a friend's car. The trail starts at Wuzhishan Zaojun Temple 五指山灶君堂 and Yu Huang Temple 玉皇宮  which is just off of county road 37 in Beipu Township.

If coming from the Taipei area it takes about an hour and a half to drive there depending on traffic.

The hike: In September of 2021 I had come to this area with my wife and kids. We visited the Beipu Cold Spring and walked a family friendly trail at the base of the mountain. Here is the blog post about that visit: Beipu Cold Spring 北埔冷泉 and Wuzhishan Scenic Area 五指山風景區 

Since then, I had wanted to walk the trail to the top of Wuzhishan and finally got a chance to return. My friend picked me up at my apartment, we picked up two other hikers and we were on our way.  We got to the parking lot near the temple just before 9:30 am. 

Across the street from the temple there is a view point and looking back, its also a great spot to see the peaks of Wuzhishan rising up behind the temple. 


We went into a tunnel between the two temples, up steps with ornate railings and came to an area with many worshipers praying and burning incense. 



Just to the right was a shelter house and passing around the far side of the shelter house we came to an indistinct trail that went up very steeply. 


 
In about 200 meters we connected with the wider main trail and turned right. 


 



This path was surfaced with stone and there were wooden steps and boardwalks. The forest was very nice but the stones were mossy and slippery. Once we started the climb to the first peak the footing was much better. 

About 40 minutes after we started, we came to a T-intersection, and took a trail climbing up on the left.  

For the trail to Da Ai Shan, you would turn right here and the trail would be past another temple and the road. But I can't say what it is like as I have only looked at that section on a map and have never been that way.


 The climb to Thumb Peak 姆指峰 was probably the hardest in terms of climbing. It wasn't that difficult but it definitely got my heart rate up and my clothes were soaked with sweat by the time we reached the top. 

Along the path there were clear signs in Chinese and English and occasional benches for resting. 

Just before the trail turns to the left along the ridge there is a narrower trail joining from the right. This is where you would rejoin the path if you took the path to Da Ai Shan.


 






The flat top of Muzhifeng (Thumb Peak) 1024 m

 After a short rest at Thumb Peak we continued straight ahead. Again a clear sign pointed the way to Shizifeng (Index Finger Peak). 

The trail went straight along the ridge until we came to two limbs lashed together into an "X." A clear indication not to go that way. Instead the path went right and down wooden steps to the saddle between the two peaks. 


At the bottom the path began the climb up again and before too long we arrived at Shizhifeng (Index Finger Peak)
食指峰 (1040 m).

 
Shizifeng was crowded with people taking photos in front of the sign when we arrived but in just a few minutes everyone left but us four and it seemed strangely quiet. 

After another short rest we repeated the same process as before-- going down the saddle and then starting the climb up to the highest peak. 


 In less than 100 meters, at the bottom of the saddle, we passed the path we would later take on the way down, just next to a large flat topped rock. 

It can't be seen in this photo but just in front of the stone is a path going downhill. The path straight ahead continues to the middle finger peak.
 

We came to a really nice shaded clearing with a cliff at the far end but only a bit of a view through the trees.  Here and at the peak would both be great places to camp but you would need to carry water.


 Then we continued through pine forest. One path went near the cliff's edge and others meandered through the trees. This was one of the most beautiful parts of the trail and I took a video to try to capture the feel of the forest.


 Just before reaching the peak the path comes to a road. You can continue through the trees or just follow the road. 

It only took about 30 minutes to walk from Shizhifeng to Wuzhishan also known as the Middle Finger Peak 五指山(中指峰) (1061 m). 

In photos that I had seen the sign at the peak had a big middle finger and I was looking forward to posing at the peak with it. I can't convey how disappointed I was to see that apparently this sign had been replaced with a normal one.
 

Me looking disappointed at not being able to flip off the camera with a middle finger sign. There were lots of butterflies though which somewhat made up for it.

There was a decent view and another nice view just a little further downhill. 


It was hot and sunny so we went into the shade of the trees and had lunch near the base of a communication tower. 
 


 

We ate and rested for about half an hour. We discussed going on to the fourth and fifth peaks (an out and back trail) but the sky was getting dark. In the previous few days there had been spectacular and violent thunderstorms in the afternoons and some of us felt we had hiked far enough, so we made a group decision that it was better to head back down.

We walked back to the path we had passed earlier and started down. 


 
This path was very slippery and steep and we had to take care but it was one of the most fun parts of the hike. 




 The entire decent is 410 meters. After 180 meters--less than half way down-- there is a junction that is not very clear because its very overgrown. We went straight down ignoring the left hand turn. 

The left turn comes out closer to the temple and straight path goes to the rock crevice known as the thread of sky and the parking lot. 

At the bottom we rejoined the stone path and went left soon coming to the thread of sky. 



As we walked the last short section to the parking lot it started to rain. At the next intersection we turned, came to a dirt road, took a left and came out to the car.




This was a really enjoyable hike and I think we made the right decision to only do three peaks but I look forward to coming back to hike all six. 

GPS Coordinates and map:

Parking lot: 24.643646, 121.090877

Muzhifeng (Thumb Peak): 24.637232, 121.090838

Shizhifeng (Index Finger Peak): 24.639334, 121.093206

Wuzhishan (Middle Finger Peak): 24.641353, 121.096168

 

http://rblr.co/OeE1l 





 



 



 

 

 

Saturday, June 4, 2022

Four Dragons Waterfall 炮仔崙瀑布(四龍瀑布)

Four Dragons Waterfall
 

This family friendly walk in the Shenkeng District leads to a tall waterfall located in a green, leafy gorge.  It is easy to get to and a well-known spot. However, on the day that we visited it did not feel crowded. It's an easy escape from the city and on a hot day it's a pleasure to sit at the base of the rushing white column and feel the mist and the wind from the plunging water. 

Distance/Time:  4.5 km/ 2 hours (including time spent at the waterfall. Actual hiking time was 1.5 hours) More information as well as a map can be found here: http://rblr.co/OdqTZ

The Trail: This is an easy, family friendly walk. It would be even easier if driving to the trail head. We took a bus and walked on the road for about 2 km. The walk from the road to the waterfall is less than 400 meters.  The highest point is at the waterfall which is 188 m. 

The trail was wet in some places but not slippery.

There is a portable toilet at the trailhead and a rustic toilet at the waterfall. There are some tables and chairs on a platform next to the waterfall.

What to bring: Nothing special is needed. Shoes without adequate tread might slip on some of the wet stones. I wore Chaco sandals and the other people with me wore sneakers. 

It was very hot on the day we were there and though the trail is shaded, sun protection on the road is a good idea. 

There is a 7-11 at the bus stop in ShenKeng.

Transportation: We took the MRT to Muzha Station and then took bus 660 to the Shenkeng bus stop.  The bus ride is only about 10 minutes or more depending on how many people are getting on or off. 

On the way back we took bus 679 because it was coming sooner. As we were standing at the stop we noticed that buses 666, 795 and of course 660 all go to Muzha MRT station.

The hike:  We got off the bus at the Shenkeng stop just next to a 7-11 and then took the first turn on the right. 

After turning right,  the entrance to Shenkeng Old Street can be seen on the left hand side. 


We went straight ahead crossing a bridge over the Jingmei River. 

Bridge over the Jingmei River
After the bridge we walked for 250 meters till we came to road 106 and a CPC gas station. 


We crossed the street, turned right and then took the next left--a smaller road with a betel nut stand on the corner. It took us about 12 minutes to reach this point.

Left at the bing lang stand

 From here its a 30-40 minute walk to the waterfall. We stayed on the road all the way to the trail head. We passed what looked like garden centers and then a driving range. After the driving range the road began to feel more rural and soon was parallel to a stream on the right. 


Ignoring a right turn with an arrow and a sign reading Paozilun Trail, we continued straight on the road. 

Continue straight here

The trailhead is on the left and is marked with a sign in Chinese. Several cars were parked at the side of the road.


The trail is made of gravel-filled tires, stone and dirt. It sometimes climbs--sometimes is level and passes through dense forest. It's not a long walk. Just before getting to the waterfall there is a rushing stream next to the path.






There were a few people already at the falls and a very friendly dog. 


 There is a shallow (about calf deep) pool at the base of the waterfall. 
Some children were playing in another pool a little downstream. 

A path made of sandbags made it easier to reach the bottom of the waterfall. Some of the rocks are slimy and very slippery so be careful if stepping off the sandbag path. A wooden pallet propped against the stone made it possible to climb up right under the flow and some older men were taking turns climbing up to be pummeled by the water.  

I was tempted to try it as well but in the end I was content to just sit with my feet in the water feeling the spray and the cool breeze. 

We walked back to Shenkeng Old Street the same way we had come.

 

GPS coordinates and map:

Four Dragons Waterfall trailhead: 24.988446, 121.606223

http://rblr.co/OdqTZ